The mountains in Kobe are known as the Rokko Mountains, although the single highest peak at 931 meters is the actual Mt. Rokko, or "Rokko-san". ("San" meaning "mountain", not "mister".) There are many good hiking trails throughout these mountains, and during my time there I have hiked to the top of Mt. Rokko about ten times. It only takes a few hours to the summit at a leisurely pace, making it much easier than Mt. Fuji. Because lower peaks block it, you can't actually see the summit of Mt. Rokko from Kobe. You have to go further east to Osaka to see the unremarkable hump. A lower peak with a much more spectacular view is just to the northeast of Sannomiya, the center of Kobe, and is known as Mt. Maya.

Maya-san is only 702 meters high but offers a famous night view of Kobe. The easiest way to the top is to take the Maya Cable Car and "Ropeway" (Gondola) which isn't far from Sannomiya station by bus. During my recent trip to Japan (May 2006) I took my parents up to Maya-san using the cable car and gondola. I think that was my fourth time to the top, but first time doing it the easy way without hiking. Along the hiking trails of Maya-san you can find some old temple ruins and abandoned houses giving the whole area an eerie feeling.

Please click on the images to see larger versions.

Maya Cable The easiest way to get to the top of Maya-san is to take the cable car and gondola. Take the Kobe city bus #18 from Sannomiya or walk from Hankyu Ojikoen station to the Maya Cable Station. I recommend going one way to the top so you can enjoy the hike down. Or you could do it in reverse. The cable car goes up a very steep grade and drops you off at Niji "Rainbow" Station.
Maya Hotel From Niji station you can see a clear view of the ruined Maya hotel. I love ruins and abandoned buildings like this. It's amazing that you can find places like this in Japan. I always wonder how buildings become abandoned. Who owns the land now? What will happen to it in the future? Here is some information in Japanese about the Maya hotel along with many more pictures. It was built in 1930, but because of the war and the shutting down of the cable car it was abandoned. The building was later damaged during the war, earthquakes, arson and the usual ravages of time. How did that airplane tire get in the roof? The path from Niji station is blocked but it looks like many people have snuck in over the years.
Maya Ropeway Niji station is only about halfway up the mountain. You go the rest of the way by the Maya Ropeway. (I'm not even sure what we call these in English. Is "gondola" the correct term?) You can see the cables stretching up to the top of the mountain.
In Transit Here is the view back about halfway into the five minute trip. You can see the old hotel to the left of Niji station. It's exhilarating to see the tops of the trees waving in the wind below you. Here is another picture a little further along.
The View Here is the view from the top looking east towards Osaka. The air was very hazy, as it usually is in late spring and summer so the view isn't good. This Japanese web page has a photo of the night view.
Hiking Map At this point it might be helpful to look at this hiking map. I translated the key points in red. Note the big red sign says "you are here". I took the picture of this map near the end of the hike near a hiker's clubhouse. For some reason the map says the Maya-san is 698.9 m, whereas this sign at the peak claims 702 m. In order to see the various abandoned houses it's important to stay on the "Aodani" (Blue or probably Green Valley) trail. After the old Tenjo Temple ruins the Aodani trail splits so look for the 青谷 kanji and stay on that path.
Tenguiwa At the Maya peak there is a long viewing platform, the ropeway station and a wide open area. From here you can take a bus, or various hiking trails splitting off in all directions. If you head toward the road with the station building to your left you will soon find a path going down with a stone lantern. You can begin your descent here, or go a little further to find the Tenguiwa (Stone of the Long Nosed Goblin) near the peak. The actual marker is a little hard to find but not so far from the stone.
TempleRuins There are two paths down through to the old Tenjo Temple ruins. The immediate path with the stone lantern I described above and the other from the Tenguiwa near the peak. They both meet near the picture here and continue down stone steps. I love the atmosphere of these old ruins. Here are some more pictures: open area, inscribed stone, overgrown stone. In the open area there is a sign describing the history of the temple. After suffering numerous calamities through history it finally burned down in 1976. (Note another different value for the height of Maya-san). Further on the main gate still stands. You can find some old graffiti on it dating back to the 1920s and later if you can trust such things. (The picture quality is bad because it was taken on one of my earlier trips when I only had my cell phone camera.)
Abandoned House Coming down the long temple steps you come to the first abandoned house. The door is locked and I wasn't comfortable snooping around too much. I wonder who lived here? Maybe a temple monk? Somewhere near here the trail splits to the Aodani (青谷道) trail and the Ueno (上野道) trail. Be sure to follow the Aodani trail if you want to see more abandoned houses and a strange shrine. I haven't gone down the Ueno trail yet but if anyone out there has let me know if it is interesting.
Strange Shrine Continuing down the Aodani trail you will eventually come to a strange shrine. There is a small waterfall here which I think people sit under and meditate. There are also some crude buildings where it looks like people stay. Is this some kind of retreat for meditation? Or the base of some Shinto cult? I have no idea. The place is well kept, but the three times I have been through it I haven't seen anyone around. A little further on you will find what I translated on the map above as the "ascetic tea house ruins", whatever that means. I forgot to take a picture, but this other website has one. (I will talk more about this website and others below.)
House Soon you will come to more abandoned houses like this one on the left. Who used to live there? Maybe there are still vagrants living there now. Along the trail and river there were sometimes gardens. Most seemed to be well tended, but I never saw anyone around. This photo shows the old name plate near the bridge that goes over the river to another abandoned house. Finally there is a house that seems to be inhabited, but who knows for how long. Soon after this point you will emerge among the packed houses of urban Kobe.

There are many good Japanese websites out there with more detailed information on these hiking trails:

The main reason I find this hike so interesting is all the abandoned buildings you can see. I have since discovered that finding and exploring abandoned buildings, or "haikyo" in Japanese, is a big hobby in Japan. There are many "haikyo-freaks" who post there discoveries on the net. (Try searching for "廃墟フリーク") Here is one good example. One of the most famous "haikyo" in Japan is Gunkanjima, an entire island city left to ruin. Here is the Wikipedia page, and be sure to click on the external links to see the photos.